With summer on the horizon here’s a timely safety reminder about bolts and other fixed equipment on our crags when rock climbing.
Climbers first started using steel pitons (pegs) and bolts in the 1960s when aid climbing was popular, and some crags still sport rusty relics from this bygone age. In the 1980s climbing standards increased dramatically, and cutting-edge climbers started using bolts on hard climbs which were difficult or impossible to protect.
Over the last 40 years many 1000s of bolts and other fixed equipment (including pegs and tape threads) have been placed on crags across the UK, the vast majority by first ascensionists and activists on a purely voluntary and unpaid basis. This work has been done for the good of the sport by generally very experienced climbers with sound judgement of key factors including rock quality, bolt spacing, clipping positions and local climbing ethics. Whilst bolt failure is extremely rare, climbers should be aware that this equipment has been placed by different individuals, at different times with no requirement for formal training, no standard specification for equipment and no fixed procedures for monitoring, testing and replacement. Inspection and replacement work has typically been done on an, ‘as needed basis’, by voluntary collectives of climbers in conjunction with local bolt funds. Climbers must appreciate this and be aware that many bolts we clip today, though still solid, are 20 years old or more.
Pegs and in-situ threads are still used in some popular areas including Pembroke, Avon Gorge and the Wye Valley, Lancashire and elsewhere. Climbers should take particular care when using this gear and make their own judgments about the quality of placements and condition of the gear in question. Pegs and threads are not as strong or reliable as bolts and have typically been used when local climbing ethics have deemed bolts to be unacceptable in a certain area.
Since its’ adoption in the 1980s the BMC Participation Statement recognises that, ‘Climbing, hill walking and mountaineering can provide life-long physical, social and mental health benefits through exercise and adventure in amazing environments. The BMC recognises these activities involve a risk of personal injury or death. Participants should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions and involvement..’
When it comes to fixed equipment, it translates that individual climbers are personally responsible for making sure any bolts, belay stations and other equipment are safe before relying on them.
For more detailed guidance please refer to the document Bolts: a climbers’ guide on the BMC website.
At crags owned by the BMC, fixed equipment is inspected and defective items replaced on an ongoing basis supported by local climbers and bolt funds. This varies from site to site depending on the nature of the equipment and the rock type; from standard bolted sport routes and lower-offs at Horseshoe Quarry to higher-spec top-roping anchors on the southern sandstone crags (Harrison’s Rocks and Stone Farm Rocks).
On some specific non-BMC owned crags where we have taken a degree of management responsibility to safeguard access, measures are being taken to inspect fixed equipment on a regular basis. In the case of Cheddar Gorge many of the bolts were placed between 2006-9 and whilst still widely accepted as being in a sound state, climbers should flag up any instances of wear or damage on the BMC Regional Access Database (RAD) or to the Cheddar Climbing Warden (see BMC website for links).
At the majority of crags across England and Wales the BMC has no responsibility for the condition, maintenance or replacement of fixed equipment. All climbers are encouraged to be vigilant and contribute to the collective effort of keeping fixed equipment in a safe condition by reporting any serious cases of defective gear to local bolt fund activists or relevant BMC volunteers for investigation. Local bolt funds are always on the lookout for financial support and direct help with monitoring and replacement work.
Bottom line: As a climber you are personally responsible for ensuring bolts and other fixed equipment are safe before relying on them.
